Fashion

Fashion changed gradually during this period in response to a variety of influences. Advances in technology, like the sewing machine, and society, such as increased interest in sports, affected the fashions of the time. Furthermore, an increase in manufactured clothes made fashion available to more people during this period. The costumes of Hollywood movies also affected people’s attire.

1877-1899

woman in bloomers & man in suit

During this period advances in technology, and society affected the fashions of the time. New technologies like “horseless carriages,” the telephone, and the sewing machine, which came about shortly before this period, were becoming increasingly popular. Sporting activities in America also started to take off during this period, with both men and women becoming involved. This increased interest in sports like baseball and cycling necessitated the creation of new attire more suited to these sports, especially for women. Women’s desire for more freedoms also caused their attire to be reformed into somewhat more practical options.

Men :

  • Shirts

    • Lower necks and more comfortable fits

    • No frills

  • Bland, sober colors

  • Nightshirts began to be replaced by pajamas or sleeping suits

  • In the 1890s the Oxford tie, a narrow straight tie of uniform width, became popular with both men and women.

Women :

  • The invention of the sowing machine lead to elaborate decoration of many clothing items.

  • Wealthy women wore several different outfits throughout the day.

    • Long gowns for evening wear

  • Bloomers, baggy pants, for sportswear beginning in the 1890s

  • In the 1890s the Oxford tie, a narrow straight tie of uniform width, became popular with both men and women.

1900-1919

corset & man with side burns and greased back hair

An increase in manufactured clothes made fashion available to more people during this period. The latest fashions, instead of being limited to the wealthiest citizens as it had in previous times, the middle classes could now afford to purchase fashionable clothes. However, more extravagant garments and behavior were still limited to the upper class. These included wearing corsets and purchasing clothes from Paris. Increased interest in dancing also affected the fashions of the time.

Men :

  • Shirts buttoning down the front, like a modern dress shirt, to avoid pulling them over the head were introduced early in this period.

  • The Tango, a dance brought over from South America in this period, inspired long side burns and greased back black hair.

  • Black single-breasted morning coats replaced the previously popular frock coats for formal wear.

Women :

  • Early in the period unnaturally thin waists, provided by corsets; large hips, chests, and rears were popular among the wealthy.

    • This figure was limited to the wealthy because corsets could not be laced up by the wearer, necessitating a maid to put it on.

  • Later in the period being tall and young with a slim figure became more fashionable.

  • Bright primary colors became popular.

  • Tango skirts, with slits up the front, and tango slippers, which laced up the leg were inspired by the popular dance.

  • Irene Castle, a popular dancer of the period, made short hair and simple flowing dresses popular.

  • Shorter skirts and more tailored outfits came about late in the period.

1920-1945

man wearing suit w/button down shirt, woman in a tailored suit jacket

During this period men’s fashion became somewhat simpler and more practical. Women’s fashion changed largely in response to changes in what was considered a desirable figure during the period. The costumes of Hollywood movies also affected people’s attire.

Men :

  • Men began wearing two piece suits with only shirts or sweaters.

    • Suits had muted, sober, colors and any designs were generally small.

  • It became appropriate to wear a knit sweater in place of a jacket.

  • Pants became wider.

Women :

  • Early in this period skirts reaching nearly to the ankle and made of soft fabrics were popular.

  • Later skirts that came to just below the knee were fashionable.

  • In the 1920s a figure lacking in curves as considered most fashionable.

    • Corsets were shaped to restrict the chest and hips to achieve this look.

    • For larger figures a corselet, or combined brassiere and corset was developed to achieve this flattened appearance

  • The fashionable figure of the 1930s showed a return to a more natural, feminine shape

    • Tall slim figures, with high busts, and noticeable but unrestricted waists

  • Tailored suit jackets became popular.

  • Late in this period the short, pageboy hairstyle became popular.

Thinking Question: How did changes in technology and society affect what people wore?

All pictures drawn by Emily McConnelly